Quality, integrity and reliability are built into each unit proudly made in America. It contains the most frequent problems relating to refrigerators Norcold and methods to solve them. This is a very useful service information. It would save much time of searching for solutions. The refrigerator is operating on AC electric power.
The thermister sensed inoperable, so temperature is being controlled by backup operating system. The refrigerator is operating on propane gas. No AC input sensed available. Refrigerator defaulted to propane gas operation, but did not establish a flame gas lockout. The DC voltage to the refirgerator is too low to support cooling when operating on propane gas.
This can be checked by trying a different ap- pliance in the same outlet. Contact service center. Check the 10 Amp glass that is located in the cigarette lighter plug body of the power cord. DC voltage is unavailable to the refrigerator control panel or the refrigerator is OFF. This is not owner serviceable. See your dealer or authorized Norcold Service Center. Containers that contain liquids have to be sealed prior to placing in freezer.
Power board F1 fuse open blown. Optical display controls overlay malfunction.Connect the refrigerator directly to the battery. No other switches, lead wires, or electrical equipment should share the wiring between the refrigerator and battery.
When both power sources are supplied to the refrigerator it defaults to AC power. When the refrigerator is disconnected from shoreline power and AC is no longer available the refrigerator switches to DC operation. Do not use a converter or battery charger to supply the DC power directly to the unit because these two devices do not supply filtered DC power. On initial start-up, allow the refrigerator to cool for hours on the coldest temperature setting before loading it with food.
Warm foods, high ambient temperatures, and frequent door openings will increase the cooldown time. Do not cover the shelves with plastic, paper, etc.
If the unit does not start to cool after two hours, contact your dealer or a Norcold authorized service center. Your refrigerator will give you years of trouble-free service if you do the following simple checks every three to six months. Close the door on a piece of paper that is about the size of a dollar bill and gently pull the paper. You should feel a slight drag between the gasket and the cabinet. This should be done on all four sides of the door. If you do not feel a slight drag on the paper, the door is not sealing properly.
Have your dealer or an authorized Norcold Service Center correct the seal of the door. After you make these checks, if the refrigerator does not operate, contact your dealer or an authorized Norcold Service Center. Operating the refrigerator in high ambient temps can overheat the cooling unit and cause premature failure of the compressor.
To protect the cooling unit from overheating, the refrigerator will automatically shut-off when the vehicle air temperature is higher than degrees F. If shut-off occurs, an audible alarm tone operates from the refrigerator. The refrigerator will not restart until the air temperature is lower than degrees F.
Your refrigerator has an overcurrent protection system in the electronic circuit to prevent damage to the inverter which may occur due to a reverse polarity connection. You need to check the fuse, which is located in-line with the DC connector, and the polarity of the DC power supply. If the refrigerator still does not operate, another problem can exist in the inverter.
Have an authorized Norcold Service Center check the refrigerator. The refrigerator should be installed only on a solid surface in the vehicle. Do not install in an area where excessive vibration and movement may take place. Avoid placing your refrigerator in an area where it could be accidentally splashed or sprayed with water that could enter the electrical compartment of the refrigerator.
Make sure there are at least 3 inches of clearance on all three sides of the compressor compartment and at least 48 square inches of ventilation area above the compressor compartment. Turn the thermostat control to OFF. Remove all food from the refrigerator. Put dry towels inside the refrigerator to absorb excess water. Remove the wet towels and dry the inside of the refrigerator. Turn the thermostat control to the desired setting.
Put food back in the refrigerator.Tested fans first and worked fine, but they ran in reverse. So I reversed the polarity and checked again. Turns out I blew the 5amp fuse on the circuit board automotive style pull out fuse.
I pulled the fuse and checked for continuity. It was good. I forgot to reinstall it before I reassembled everthing and re-started the fridge. The LP worked just fine. After I reassembled everything and turned the fridge on, I still got the "no ac" error and LP works fine.
With the meter test for voltage at the outlet, then at the fuse on the board. Then make sure that there is AC power at the connectors that the fuse sits in.
I have seen those corrode as to not pass power. Yes a little sand paper may get them to work. Then if you have power on the connectors then test for power at the spade connection coming out of the board for AC power to the heating elements. If you have power to the spade connectors[ both spades as I think that fridge has 2 elements]. Then are the grounds hooked up. You need to follow the path of AC voltage to determine what is wrong. Welcome to the Escapee forums.
We have some pretty experienced folks here so should be able to help you and we will give it our best shot. My first suggestion is that if you do not have a copy, visit the site of Bryant RV and download a copy of the service manual. The fans that you added are powered by 12V-dc, I would assume? If you look on page 40 of the manual it shows a picture of the power circuit board and you can see the two fuses on it.
Both are 5A but the glass one to the left is for V-ac and the blade type to the right is for 12V-dc power. One would tend to think that it was the dc which was blown since the fans are dc powered. If there is no dc power the refrigerator will not operate.
Norcold refrigerator error codes
The "no ac" makes me suspect that you still have no V power to the system. If there is none, you should still be able to get the until to operate on propane. I would try selecting propane. I also suggest that you need to get out your meter and take some readings of voltages.
If that ac fuse is not seated properly it would give the error that you have and the only way to be sure there is power out of that fuse is with a meter. Read from the supply side of the fuse holder to ac return and you should see V and then across the fuse holder and it should read 0V if the fuse is good.
You can also read from the other side of the fuse to return as a second check.I thought I had our Norcold Fridge running on Auto. Today it started beeping at the control panel and showed a "no flo" reading. After checking around I realized the fridge had been running on propane and our tank had gone empty. I tried to switch the fridge over manually to the AC setting and got a reading of "no AC" Either I had the fridge running on LP for a long time without realizing it or it automatically switched to LP when the AC stopped working.
Can't figure out why the AC is not working. All the other AC in the Coach is working fine. Where should I start looking? Do you think I could use an outside outlet not part of the motorhome and run a drop cord to the fridge to check it out and see if it will work that way for now. First thing I would do is plug in something else into the outlet to see of you have VAC to the back of the refrigerator outlet. Cold this morning in Desert Hot Springs.
That's good for a fridge that is not working. I tested the plug that the fridge plugs into and it works fine. I also plugged the fridge into an outside outlet with a drop cord and got the same "no AC" message so know power to the fridge is OK. Looked for fuses and the only one I see on the circuit board is a 5 amp. It appears to be OK. There is another tube type fuse on the circuit board that also appears OK.
I wonder if my problem could be the Norcold Recall box on the unit. The little red light on it is not on. I tried to reset it with a magnet without success.
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I have only read about resetting these and have never done it before. Maybe the magnet I have is not strong enough. I put it right by the light and did not hear a click that I am told happens when they reset. Then we could have a fridge till tomorrow when I can get propane or a Norcold Tech to replace the box if it is faulty.RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting Common Problems - ViaRV Parts & Service
I tracked the problem to the Hi Limit switch Norcold Recall. Couldn't fix it with a magnet so I bypassed it as described on internet. Fridge took right off on electric. Don't want a fire, so will have a tech come out and reset the switch or order a new one. I guess that switch doesn't shut the unit off when on propane. I think mine was on Auto when it tripped and then switched over to propane when the switch failed. Could be wrong about that.
I also had to clean the clips on the tube type fuse on the circuit board as they were not making contact.Also See for series Service manual - 68 pages Installation manual - 21 pages Parts list - 23 pages. Page of 67 Go. Quick Links. See also: Service ManualOwer's Manual. Service Manual. DO NOT install this refrigerator in below deck marine applications.
Do not. Any other ventila. All rights reserved. Publication No. Table of Contents. Norcold Installation Manual 21 pages. Refrigerator Norcold Installation Manual Rv refrigerator 44 pages. Do not install this refrigerator in fixed indoor cabin or other dwelling applications. This refrigerator must use only NORCOLD designed and approved outside air in- take and exhaust ventilation for correct and safe operation. Page 3 Cycle Testing Ice Maker For example, a specifications for safety, reliability, and performance.
IMSS is a 2-way refrigerator equipped with an ice The use of unauthorized aftermarket or generic maker and stainless steel doors.
Page 6: Safety Awareness Make sure all hardware, such as hinges and fasteners conductive and pose the potential for an electric shock retaining screws, etc. Refrigerator Service Manual www. Orifice, old style 0. See page Dirty burner.This refrigerator uses either propane gas or electricity for power. For optimal operating function, Thetford advises running the Norcold refrigerator on AC power when you are camped at altitudes above 5, feet.
If the refrigerator is operated on liquid propane at higher altitudes, burner outages may occur. Ensure that your RV is parked within a 3-inch off-level side-to-side angle or a 6-inch off-level front-to-back angle.
Move the RV to a more level position for optimal operation. All RVs refrigerators must be nearly completely level to properly operate. Load food only when your refrigerator reaches optimum chilling temperature. Do this by turning on power at least one day before hitting the road, since your Norcold refrigerator must be on for at least eight hours before packing with food.
Close the refrigerator completely by listening for a clicking sound when shutting the door. Once the refrigerator has reached an ideal temperature, pack it with food while ensuring that air can circulate between items. You can create more airflow space by moving or eliminating groceries. Read and understand the fault codes that appear on your Norcold refrigerator's exterior readout panel.
If you are using liquid propane for power, an error fault code of "F" means that your refrigerator won't light. If this occurs, consider the altitude of your campsite. At elevations higher than 5, feet, keep a butane lighter nearby and prepare to manually relight the refrigerator frequently. Colder temperatures will exacerbate the situation. Expel the air from your propane gas supply lines. Anytime you refill and replace propane cylinders, air may become trapped in the gas lines, which may cause outages and reduced power.
Repeat it a few more times until all fault codes are cleared and the refrigerator ignites. Test the electricity leads going into the refrigerator control panel with a multimeter voltage reader tool. This will rule out any low voltage issues, which decrease performance. The AC voltage of a Norcold refrigerator should be in between and volts and between By KoliverOctober 14, in Systems and Appliances.
Has anyone solved this problem? There is AC to the circuit board. The 3 amp fuse on the board looks good. I have tightened all the connections to the board, as several weren't tight, and felt like I had found the problem.
The fridge has been off for 3 months while we did other things. Now that we are going to head south on Monday, it has decided to act up. The Coach is presently plugged into a 15 amp extension cord in front of our house, this was adequate to run the fridge in June. With only 15A supply, or, if you have your loadshare setting to 15A or less, can it be restricted by the Zantrek system?
I thought about that, and turned off the water heater, topped up the batteries, waited almost 24 hrs. So I will keep and eye on it, in case there is a load shedding feature that finally puts the fridge back in the system.
This would also mean that the v at the circuit board is measurable but not strong enough to run the fridge. Have you confirmed VAC to the refrigerator outlet with another appliance, test light or voltmeter? Thanks for your input. Yes, with a voltmeter, and also at the end of the cord that plugs into the circuit board. This connection was so loose I thought tightening it would be the answer, but no, didn't help. I pulled the small fuse 3 amp and it looks as good as new. Beside the fuse are some more 12 wires with extremely loose connectors, those tightened, again didn't help.
Is it possible this isn't about the fridge, but rather about the power coming in? By verifying VAC to the outlet, you have eliminated power shedding, inverter and other issues.